![]() ![]() Even sharper was his ability to capture the all-encompassing power of the obsession. As a surfer, I found it easy to get lost in Finnegan’s sharp prose about the act of surfing and poignant observations of the ever-changing surf culture. ![]() He’s a true die-hard with connections to surfing enclaves as unique as San Francisco and New York. And while some have gone so far as to call Finnegan a kook–using San Diego’s most notorious editorial graffiti wall and preserving their anonymity (see above)–it’s obvious he’s anything but.įinnegan’s memoir follows a lifelong surfing habit–nay, obsession–to the ends of the earth and back again. In spite of these feelings about book reviews, William Finnegan’s recent addition to the surfing literary canon, Barbarian Days, compelled me to write one, albeit a little late, I’ll admit. Finnegan (doubtful) just know that you write for the New Yorker and I sir, well, don’t. Because, after all, reviewers are objective, right? So before I go on, if you’re reading this, Mr. I can’t imagine how authors must feel toiling for months or even years over their life’s work–battling publishers, edits, and rewrites–only to have some smug staff writer, denoted non-specifically as “editorial board,” attempt to assert his personal opinion as cold hard fact. I’ll just come out and say it: I hate book reviews. ![]()
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